Maintenance and scaling up potato growing and consumption heritage in Northern Baltic region to build up resilient communities

MainPotRe

The Stories and Flavors of Estonian Potatoes

12 February 2025

On the evening of January 22, potato enthusiasts gathered at Kohvik Ateljee to listen to Terje Tähtjärv, a researcher and potato breeder from the Centre of Estonian Rural Research and Knowledge (METK), give an overview of potato breeding in Jõgeva from 1920 to the present day. Junior researcher Liisa Kübarsepp demonstrated how potato varieties are preserved in vitro in the gene bank. The highlight of the evening, of course, was the tasting of 12 different varieties.

Technical details

The audience was surprised to learn that 47 potato varieties have been bred in Estonia, most of which are also stored in the in vitro gene bank. The first, ‘Kalev’, was introduced in 1934, while the most recent, ‘Tiina’, was registered in 2017. Two new varieties are currently set to be released — one this year and another next year.

Naturally, the question arose: what has changed since Aamisepp arrived in Jõgeva in 1920? “The shape has become more elongated, the sprout eyes are no longer visible, and people no longer want potatoes that are too floury,” explained Terje Tähtjärv.

Modern consumers prefer early potatoes. It turns out that among our local varieties, only two are early maturing: ‘Jõgeva varajane’ and ‘Varmas’. Clearly, breeders must keep up with trends to remain competitive with Central European varieties. It also emerged that the most widely grown variety over time has been ‘Sulev’, while the oldest known heritage variety is ‘Väike verev’.

One major issue is the way potatoes are sold in stores. Since the crates are usually open at the top, the tubers tend to turn green quickly. Green spots are only discovered at home with unwashed potatoes, but with washed ones, they are visible in the store. Retailers need to be educated to ensure that consumers receive high-quality produce.

Plant diseases and pests are also a growing concern. The spectrum of late blight variants has become so diverse that every garden seems to have its own strain. Wireworm damage is something all growers have encountered. The event included advice on how to keep potato patches healthy. Additionally, potatoes are susceptible to many viruses, which are mainly spread by aphids. Various types of scab can also affect the appearance of tubers, though fortunately, these are not harmful.

Liisa Kübarsepp explained how the cultivation of potato varieties starts in the gene bank, which holds around 450 varieties in 5,000 test tubes. Unlike grain seeds, which can be stored for long periods in boxes or sacks, potatoes are preserved as plants in test tubes (in vitro collection).

Many people grow heirloom varieties in their home gardens—varieties passed down from older generations or acquired from someone else, with their original names long forgotten. This is where genetic research comes in, as potato DNA can be analysed just like human DNA. Every country has its own gene bank, and the data from different studies can be compared. This means that some potato varieties commonly grown in Estonia may actually have originated in neighbouring countries. As part of the MainPotRe project, genetic tests will be conducted on 30 samples. For example, it would be fascinating to discover the true identity of the variety known as ‘Tsaariaegne’. Liisa encouraged attendees to report any old garden varieties, especially if they have a well-documented history of cultivation.

A lively discussion arose regarding the culinary properties of different potato varieties—specifically, which variety is best suited for which dish. “It all depends on the year’s weather, the soil, water conditions, the dormancy characteristics of the variety, starch content, and many other factors,” Terje explained. Over time, breeders have reduced the sugar content in potatoes to minimise health risks associated with fried and deep-fried foods. This means that each type of dish has its ideal potato variety.

The audience had the chance to taste 12 varieties bred in Jõgeva, categorised as pre-WW II varieties, favourites from the last quarter of the 20th century, and modern varieties. On this particular day and under these conditions, the most pleasant flavours were found in ‘Jõgeva kollane’ and ‘Piret’. While many assume that “a potato is just a potato” and they all taste the same, the tasting session confirmed that each variety has its own distinct flavour and characteristics.

By the end of the evening, the audience had been won over by local potatoes. As Terje pointed out, thanks to the fertile soils of Jõgevamaa, the region produces especially flavourful potatoes. Hopefully, in the future, these wonderful old varieties can also be made available to hobby growers, as there is great interest in them.

Author: Ülle Jukk, Jõgeva County Cooperation Chamber

Translated by Christiana-Gabriela Kristal, METK